Much like last year’s COP28 in Dubai, doubts about the host nation’s capacity to pull off a unifying deal surfaced long before delegates set foot on the ground.
Consultation and consensus-building did not come naturally in a post-Soviet autocracy. Azeri President Ilham Aliyev, who succeeded his father, recently secured a fifth consecutive term in office, having won 92% in an election boycotted by the opposition. In 2012, an organisation investigating systemic crime and corruption named him “Person of the Year”. Some honour.
As COP29 approached, repression of activists and journalists reportedly intensified – not a great look for a conference known as much as a platform for civil society as intergovernmental negotiations.
But it was Azerbaijan’s entrenched relationship with the fossil fuels sector that drew the most attention. For delegates in Baku, this reality was plainly visible. Three flame-shaped towers dominate the city skyline – a nod to the oil and gas that generates 90% of the country’s export revenue, and 60% of its budget – while pumpjacks littered the city’s outskirts.
The green sheen given to the city was obvious. Electric buses shuttled delegates to the stadium venue, and the local rideshare service included a fleet of slick cars manufactured by BYD, China’s answer to Tesla. Baku was meticulously spruced up – workers picked up every fallen autumn leaf and ornate buildings were lit up to Parisian effect. At the conference venue, a converted sports stadium, logistics ran with impressive efficiency as an army of friendly Azeri student volunteers pointed directions to 60,000-odd attendees.
Yet, Azerbaijan’s identity as the “land of fire” was hard to ignore. Its oil legacy spans centuries and remains a point of national pride, marked by the world’s first industrially drilled oil well, located a short drive from the summit venue. This uneasy backdrop was reinforced during a visit to one of the nation’s top tourist attractions, Yanar Dagh, or “burning mountain”, where natural gas seeping from the earth fuels “eternal” flames. This phenomenon is tied to Zoroastrianism, an ancient religion born in the region more than 3000 years ago. In some parts of the country, locals bathe in crude oil, believed to have medicinal benefits.